If our first meal in Tokyo did not make this clear, Japan is a nation of adventurous eaters. While many of the meals that are prepared at restaurants are done so with obvious care and artistic flare, proving the old addage true that we eat first with our eyes, this is not always the case. Take the Osakan culinary delight, Okonomiyaki, a savoury Japanese pancake cum omelette that roughly translates to “what you like, grilled”, because the possible mix-in ingredients that are added to the batter are limited only by one’s imagination (and perhaps the iron-coating on one’s stomach!). Okonomiyaki has not really infiltrated mainstream Japanese cuisine in North America, but almost any foodie worth his or her salt will have heard of it. Always looking to push the boundaries and try something new, we decided that while in Tokyo, we had to try the regional twist (and Tokyo specialty), Monjayaki.

Monjayaki is rarely mentioned in guidebooks (we read about it in passing on WikiTravel’s Tokyo page), but a girl at the Tokyo Tourist Center in the TMG gave us the straight scoop: ride the Tokyo metro to Tsukishima and take Exit 7. There you’ll exit onto a street known as “Monjayaki Alley”, as the entire road is essentially composed of Monjayaki shops, nestled side by side. From afar, the street looks quaint and charming, but step up to any Monjayaki shop and you’ll see that these restaurants are boisterous and bright.

With Monjayaki shops as far down the street as the eye can see, choosing a place to eat may seem overwhelming, but we just stepped up two a place that looked relatively busy and had two welcoming hostesses and tossed our hat into the ring.

We were given an English menu with a dizzying number of options, but it didn’t take us long to decide on the Special Monjayaki, which boasted shrimp, squid, pork, plus “10 other ingredients!” Sold!

In most cases, Monjayaki is a DIY affair – you cook the ingredients on the hot grilltop at your table, then scoop sections of it onto your plates with a little shovel-type implement that you then use too eat (this stuff is way too volatile to use chopsticks with!). Thankfully our waitress offered to cook the Monjayaki for us instead (we obviously had no clue what we were doing), which was an offer we were more than happy to accept. Watch the video below to witness our Monjayaki come into being:

Do a little research on Monjayaki, and you’ll often find it described as a runnier or more gooey Okinomiyaki. In both looks and texture, this is the red-headed step-child of Okinomiyaki. Seeing the finished product, two thoughts race through your mind:

1. I’m not sure this is done cooking
2. This looks like this was eaten by someone else a few hours ago

Not ones to be dissuaded by the vaguely vomitous-looking mess before us, we harnessed our fear and dug in. We have no idea what all 10 ingredients included in our Monjayaki were (in addition to the named ingredients, we know there was cabbbage, corn and flaked tuna), but what we can say is that despite its looks, it was delicious! It sort of had the texture of melted cheese and the flavor profile was otherwise very similar to the Okinomiyaki we have sampled previously. Also, if you pace yourself right, as you get to the final bits of Monjayaki, you’ll find that a crispy crust forms on the underside, which adds a yummy toasted dimension to the whole dish. Just goes to show that looks can be deceiving and it’s always worth trying something at least once!

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To fellow fearless feasters, we highly recommend checking out Monjayaki if you ever find yourself in Tokyo. Not only can you fill your belly for relatively cheap (our Monjayaki was only 1450Y and easily fed the two of us), but for a city that sees its fair share of tourists, it was the one place we went where we were the only “gaijin” around. Best of all, the dish is largely circumscribed to this one street (!), and not really found in the rest of Japan. If you’re looking for the quintessential Tokyo dining experience, we’d wager to say that this is it!

Written by: Stephenie Harrison


In another life, I moved from Toronto, Canada to Nashville, TN to pursue my doctoral degree in Psychology. That chapter of my life is now finished, but I did earn the right to demand you call me Dr. Steph (though I respond just as well to plain old Steph). I am an avid reader whose book collection is rivaled only by my many pairs of cute shoes. I also like to knit, hold impromptu karaoke parties, and try new and unusual foods. Generally not all at the same time. I also really love to learn languages, which may explain why I took 3 years of Latin in highschool. I'm turning over a new leaf, so instead of looking forward, I'm going to work on enjoying the present, so the country I'm most looking forward to is whichever one we're in right now!

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Read comments (8)

  1. August 24, 2012 at 9:31 am
    Aug. 24, '12

    I think I would have been a little intimidated to do that without seeing it first. I’m not usually scared off by weird textures, but I don’t like undercooked egg. Does it have that consistency? I like the combo of ingredients though…and those mushrooms looked awesome. YUM.
    Carmel recently posted..Parsley & Walnut Pesto

    • August 24, 2012 at 7:35 pm
      Aug. 24, '12

      It didn’t really have an egg-like texture… really more like melted cheese. The more you let it cook, the more it became gooey, rather than runny. Tony is often put off by strange textures, and this didn’t bother him at all!

  2. August 24, 2012 at 7:03 pm
    Aug. 24, '12

    We are so going there! Thanks for the tip!
    Gillian @OneGiantStep recently posted..Setting The Criteria

    • August 24, 2012 at 7:35 pm
      Aug. 24, '12

      You absolutely should! Not the prettiest meal, to be sure, but definitely an authentic Tokyo dining experience if ever there was one!

  3. August 24, 2012 at 7:06 pm
    Aug. 24, '12

    Ummm…”vaguely vomitous-looking mess?” That’s not sounding too appetizing! 😉 Although compared to other stuff you’ve eaten, I’d be more likely to try this.
    softdrink recently posted..Traumatic interlude

    • August 24, 2012 at 7:36 pm
      Aug. 24, '12

      To be fair, it only LOOKED like vomit, didn’t taste like it… 😉 Monjayaki just isn’t a pretty dish!

  4. August 26, 2012 at 11:47 am
    Aug. 26, '12

    Okay that really does look disgusting, lol. I’m not sure I would have been brave enough to try it!
    Amanda recently posted..I would walk 500 miles…

    • August 26, 2012 at 8:08 pm
      Aug. 26, '12

      We knew that what we were ordering didn’t have anything ostensibly gross in it, so even if it didn’t look pretty, it should still taste good! But yeah, if you were just presented with that as a meal, I would be pretty suspicious!

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